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Thread: Wintertech follow up

  1. #1
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    Wintertech follow up

    Just wondering what everyone learned from the Winter Tech event. For me, learning that the shop media blasts the underhood aluminum items, then they do an acid bath, then protects it with "Boe Shield" to keep it from oxidizing was the most useful take away.
    Tyler
    1957 190SL

  2. #2
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    Re: Wintertech follow up

    Tyler:
    Winter Tech was an excellent event. My recollection is a little different from yours. I noted that the natural aluminum items were media blasted then evenly coated with a non-aluminum wheel cleaner like "Maguires" to preserve the finish. I also had "Boe Shield" as the oil they used to protect black oxide finished items. Maybe some other members can confirm.
    Both of these were great tips from the crew at Mercedes.
    Greg Peirce
    Beaufort, SC

  3. #3
    Administrator JimVillers's Avatar
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    Re: Wintertech follow up

    In addition to the above, I have assembled a spring compressor similar to the one that they used. After some testing and tweaking, I'll post the design. I am also exploring making the post adapters that they placed in the jack ports to lift the car to become a store item. It really depends on the ability to manufacture them at a reasonable cost.
    Jim Villers
    1961 190SL, 230SL 5-speed, MGB 5-speed, Boxster 'S'; Porsche 356C; 1967 Porsche 911; 1950 Jeep CJ3A; 1958 190SL "Frosty"

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    56 & 60 sl & 67 Sedan 230 Andre Hudon's Avatar
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    Re: Wintertech follow up

    Jim,
    The cars being so old, I do not think a lot of owners will be interested in a jack adapter using the frame holes. Risk of collapsing is high.
    Better to make a survey thru the members to see the potential.
    It is a no for me, I prefer scissor jack.
    ________________________________
    André Hudon

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    Re: Wintertech follow up

    Greg,
    I agree on the two points you corrected. I used Boeshield T-9 Rust and Corrosion Protection on my steel table saw top to prevent corrosion.
    Dave
    1958 190SL DB190/1079, Factory luggage
    4th Owner in 1977

  6. #6
    Registered User tommd's Avatar
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    Re: Wintertech follow up

    Andre, you mention some may not want to use the jacking Ponts as they may be rusty and break. It seems to me if one is afraid to jack their car in the garage due to rust they also would not want to drive it on the highway.
    Tom D.
    1961 190SL

  7. #7
    23K Original Miles slover's Avatar
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    Re: Wintertech follow up

    I think there are better places to jack the car than the jacking points that were provided for emergency purposes, usually one at a time (for tire changing) rather than lifting the entire car. I use the trailing arm mount in the rear and the frame rail in the front.

    I have a set of jack point extenders for my Porsche 356 C and have never used them. I thought they were a good idea when I bought them and then they seemed more work than just sliding a jack under the car.
    John Lewenauer - Newsletter Editor - Regional Director
    1961 190 SL
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  8. #8
    Registered User tommd's Avatar
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    Re: Wintertech follow up

    I agree one may desire to jack elsewhere for convenience. But to not want to jack the car at a spot that was deigned to be strong for fear of breaking it would have me not wanting to ride in that car. If I were purchasing one , I would require the owner to jack there.
    Tom D.
    1961 190SL

  9. #9
    56 & 60 sl & 67 Sedan 230 Andre Hudon's Avatar
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    Re: Wintertech follow up

    [QUOTE=tommd;100868]Andre, you mention some may not want to use the jacking Ponts as they may be rusty and break. It seems to me if one is afraid to jack their car in the garage due to rust they also would not want to drive it on the highway.[/

    This jack has no retaining force in the driving direction. Using it, you need to trust your shifter and emergency brake not to retrieve the car on one of her drum. Stoppers beside the wheels are mandatory. I tested mine, it worked, but to me, it is the last one to use.
    A lot of stress is produce on the attachement when lifting the car. It is only and adapter welded on a thin sheet of metal. Mercedes engineers were not over designing at these points. A 50+ years old car, not restored recently, cannot conserve his entire integrity in this area subjected to rain water, mud and snow.
    Last edited by Andre Hudon; 02-21-2018 at 08:27 PM.
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  10. #10
    Registered User tommd's Avatar
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    Re: Wintertech follow up

    Maybe I should change my thinking. I have somewhat "assumed" that if there was enough corrosion to rust out the jacking points and allow them to break away from the frame rails and caps, then maybe there was enough corrosion to also damage the trailing arm mounts and frame rails/caps themselves. I am surprised that on a car that rusts as much as these, that those other critical items would survive and the jack points do not. I have never done this rust restoration myself. Maybe someone who has done these repairs can report. Is it typical for the jack points to rust away, but the trailing arm mounts and frame rails survive and do not need any repairs?
    Tom D.
    1961 190SL

  11. #11
    56 & 60 sl & 67 Sedan 230 Andre Hudon's Avatar
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    Re: Wintertech follow up

    I am completing a rotisserie restoration on a 1960, replacing all floor pans and frame rails. The rails rusted from the inside and outside. Front jacking tubes and rear sockets retained water and scales, increasing rust developments. Trailing arms with their omega shape do not retain humidity in an area well ventilated, keeping their solidity.
    Last edited by Andre Hudon; 02-22-2018 at 04:39 PM.
    ________________________________
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