vin number

[rsaf1947]

Hi, been a club member for awhile but just now registered for the forum.

Need clarification on vin #'s on my 62 190

data plate on upper left front engine compt reads:
121040-10-020781 which agrees with paperwork found in glovebox from original owner bought in April 62 from MB Dealer in Barberton, Ohio

this number also appears in driver door jamb along with I guess is color code DB5346 and then a 40 C or G?? (any ideas what these are)?

then stamped on the firewall top driver's side is following #

121040-10-00739---there is no plate just stamped into the wall?

Also, where do I find the engine #?

any help greatly appreciated

Bob

[johnjohnson1957]

Bob,
These cars came with a variety of numbers. Chasis #, Body #, engine #, stering box, trans, rear end and even a number for the the right and left front axle assembles.

If you don't already have a copy of the MB service manual model 190 get one (they appear on ebay frequently). page VI and VII
show where these numbers are. Also the spare parts manual (glove box book} shows the number locations on page 5 and 6.

Stamped into the fire wall is the car's body number not to be confused witht he chasis number (yes they are usually different). You'll also find your chasis # stamped into the frame on the passenger side down by the voltage regulator. There is also a plate they attach in that area that has the chasis # on it.

Engine number is found on a plate attached to drivers side of the engine. I can't remember is they stamped that number into the block or not but t sure seems like they did.

[rsaf1947]

Thanks John, I will try to see if the chassis number is stamped into the block. For awhile there I wasn't sure what was going on with the numbers. Thanks again

[JimVillers]

Bob .... I'll provide a little more information on your VIN before Ed chimes in. 121040-10-020781; the 121 means a 190SL, the 040 means that is was manufactured as a coupe. The 10 means that it is a left hand drive model. I believe that the first two digits of the serial number indicate the year of manufacture (02 -> 1962) and I will let Ed tell you the month of assembly.

Ed, am I learning?

[bertfam]

Jim,

You got most of it right... (and, oh, by the way, the "Photo of the Month"... I didn't realize that Nathan Hale owned a 190SL!!!)



Here you go Bob, and by the way, welcome to the site...

121 - Model 190 (NOT necessarily a 190SL. This designation was also used on the early 190 Sedans as well...)

040 - Coupe (Hardtop and Leather interior, Soft Top optional.)

10 - Left hand drive.

020781 - sequential Chassis Number. (Not the year of manufacture though. Sorry Jim!) In this case, the car was built in late March, 1961. It's actually a 1961! Probably sold in late 1961 and registered as a 1962...

00739 stamped on the firewall is the Body Number as John stated. This was used for line workers to assemble the corresponding components to the right car. Each major body panel will also have this number (739) stamped into it. That way the workers wouldn't accidently attach, for example, the wrong hood to the wrong car...

DB5346 - You sure about this number? No info on this one! However, DB534 is Fire Engine Red...

40G - Black Hard Top (Glasurit paint)

Also, as John stated, the Engine Number for you 928 engine will be on the drivers side of the engine under the number 4 cylinder (toward the back of the engine).

Bob, I'm also the official "Keeper of the Numbers" for the 190SL Group. Could you please send me a few photos of the car and a copy of the Data Card if you could. (The Engine Number as well when you find it...) My email address is on my signature at the bottom. A "JPG" format is just fine, or whatever you have.

Thanks
Ed

[rsaf1947]

Well now it's getting interesting---I really do appreciate the input and info

After re-checking using my wife's eye's--the progressive lenses are great overall, but not for close work !, she determined that the color number is DB534G and then 40G----

interestingly enough---this car only has a soft top and no provision that I can see for a hardtop installation

top and interior are both tan or beige colors

exterior is the bright orange type of red

engine # is : 121 01038 20
and below that is stamped what appears to be: 6-8,8

I've seen references to data card before---what are you referring to exactly?

I'm learning alot here and will put together all the info once straightened out---the car was titled as a 62, but actually didn't show the correct serial# on the title. I will re-title with correct serial # and year once I get it figured out a 61 sounds better already!

[bertfam]

Bob,

NOT uncommon for previous owners to discard the Hard Top in favor of the Soft Top! The Hard Top is VERY difficult to remove and install. The thing weighs a ton and it's impossible to do alone.

The DB534G is the Fire Engine Red (Glasurit) color so you should check your car color against the one we have on the site to see how close they match:

http://www.190slgroup.com/tech/techn...eenginered.jpg

The engine number (121 01038 20) doesn't look right though. It should be something like:

928-10-020734

The number you have looks like the Body Number for another car! I wonder if it's been replaced and the previous owner of THAT engine stamped the Body Number on the block... Is there a small metal tag that this number is on or just stamped on the block itself? There should be a metal tag. Double check this...

The 6-8,8 is the compression ratio of the engine. 8.8:1 in this case.

Here's a link to explain the Data Card:

http://forums.190slgroup.com/showthr...ight=data+card

In short, it's the "printed version" of all the Standard and Optional Equipment that came on your car. If you don't have one, you can call, FAX, write or email Mercedes Benz for a copy of yours. You'll need to include proof of ownership (Title) before they'll send it to you...

Ed

[JimVillers]

Ed ..... I noticed that the Australian web site has been revised. I captured their old page and put it up on our site. Data Card

[rsaf1947]

Ed. located the engine tag just where you guys said it was, did some cleaning and although still difficult to read, again using my wife's eyes found the following info:


M 121 B II

bottom line reads left to right

Motor # Engine #
121.921 10 020 921

the other number in the previous note was stamped into the block just below the valve cover above and between the # 2 and #3 sparkplugs--and that was the 121 01038 20

We did not see the 928 anywhere on this tag

am I any closer to the correct #??

[bertfam]

Bob,

The 921 Engine you have (121.921 10 020 921) looks to be correct and ORIGINAL for your car. (I mis-typed 928 instead of 921 before...The 928 engine wasn't introduced until August 1, 1961.) Congratulations!! The "121 010 38 20" is the Casting Number for the block!! (I should have recognized this right away! Sorry for the confusion.)

I can now include your car in the database. If you could send me a few photos and the Data Card when you get it, I'd appreciate it... (I also need your last name to record the owner.)

By the way, the Data Card will contain all the serial numbers you've mentioned, plus the Transmission Number, Rear Axle Number, Steering Arm Numbers, etc... You should really get this.

Ed

[rsaf1947]

Thanks Ed, I appreciate your responses.
My full name is Bob Safranek
825 Timberline Trail
Sagamore Hills, Ohio 44067

I sent off today for the data card. As soon as I get one back I will send you a copy along with some photos I took at a German Club car show back a few years ago in the Cleveland area.

I do have a couple of other questions that go back awhile.
I recently sent an email to Bud Adams on this, but haven't heard anything on it. I have a problem with excessive fuel smell after shutting down the car. It keeps the garage smelling really bad for a day or so after I drive the car. These are Solex carbs, and I have heard of the drain down tube being a potential source. Hard to locate without a lift, but I have noticed that there is a tube that I can see from above that appears to be fastened to the support arm that holds up the carbs and the large aluminum casted piece in front of the carbs. This tube is not attached to anything. Is this the drain down tube? If so, this might be the problem or part of it.

One other question: the air filter canister with the built in filter. I have found a round filter from K&F that fits pretty well into the basin of the unit. I dont fill it with oil anymore. My question is, what can be done about the upper filter housing? the filter that is in it is pretty dirty and I'm sure old. Is it ok to cut it out and get rid of the filter material or replace with new and have a double filter system as it so happens now? I don't want to wash it in gas or mineral spirits because then you have to get rid of the contaminated fluid. Any thoughts on these items?

[bertfam]

Bob,

Thanks for the info. I'll keep an eye out...

As for your "gas smell"... welcome to the wonderful world of the 190SL!!! The Fuel Overflow Pipes (#67 and #80 in the link below), vent the raw gas to the atmosphere. And, they do a REALLY GOOD JOB!!! That's why you smell gas when you stop/park the car. Basically, the Solex carbs allow excess fuel to build up when the car is hot and the engine shuts off. This is one reason for the Hot Start mechanism. It allows the "puddled" fuel to be drawn off, so a hot car will start. Keeps the car from flooding... The Fuel Overflow Pipes also get rid of excess fuel, but over a longer period of time. Several minutes instead of just a few seconds like the Hot Start.

There are a few things you can do to minimize this condition. Although NOTHING will eliminate it completely, keeping your floats at the proper levels will help. I've heard that some people actually lower the level a smidge and that helps even more, but I can't verify this. The other thing is to idle the car for a few minutes at low RPM's before you shut it off. This burns the excess fuel and keeps it from running out of the pipes.

http://www.190slgroup.com/tech/pic_part/pc_07.gif

As for the Air Cleaner, here's a great thread on this subject! It shows how to install a K&N filter into the housing...

http://forums.190slgroup.com/showthr...=&threadid=485

Good luck...

Ed

[rsaf1947]

Thanks again Ed, you have been most helpful

I'll keep you posted as I go along!!

Bob

[bertfam]

Bob,

Another area you might want to check for you fuel smell is the Fuel Filter/Valve assembly. After awhile, the cork gasket inside shrinks and rots away, making it leak. The easiest way to tell if it's leaking is to feel around for fuel on the bottom of the valve, or look for discoloration or wetness on the frame below the valve. If it's leaking, then that's your smell...

Ron and I did a test of a new teflon gasket several months ago and it's still working perfectly. NO leaks and the car starts right up...

Here's the thread that started the whole thing:

http://forums.190slgroup.com/showthr...ghlight=teflon

And here's the one with the results...

http://forums.190slgroup.com/showthr...ghlight=teflon

Also, if you have the January/February 2003 issue of the newsletter, you can read about the procedure to replace the gasket.

I'm not sure if Ron has started manufacturing and selling the Teflon gaskets yet, but I HIGHLY recommend replacing the original cork to the new teflon if he has. It will be one less thing to putz with later on down the road...

Ron???

Ed

[RonRapp]

I have about a dozen cut out & the center hole in them. I just need to add the other two holes. I have been so busy, that I can't get in the shop to make anything!