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Thread: 1957 "Green Hornet" restoration

  1. #136
    Savour the Journey ! aldesso's Avatar
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    Re: 1957 "Green Hornet" restoration

    Quote Originally Posted by Maestro View Post
    Mark,

    Just as a note for comparison, I also recently discovered that my radiator filler neck flange does not have a stop for the cap. I wasn't sure what that was about, but it's interesting that the Green Hornet -- which was manufactured just 191 units after Red Baron -- is the same way.

    (w).
    Thanks Wogbe, looks like the plot thickens ... Any one else out there with a '57(or any other 190SL for that matter) and no safety stop on the radiator flange?
    Marc G.
    __________________________________________________ _______
    '57 190SL Coupe, Blaugrün (DB268) / Tan (1068) #121 040 7502070
    "Green Hornet" restoration log

  2. #137
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    Re: 1957 "Green Hornet" restoration

    Wow - beautiful on the cover, what are those hubcaps? Are they the "Bullock" hubcaps?
    Trip

  3. #138
    Savour the Journey ! aldesso's Avatar
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    Re: 1957 "Green Hornet" restoration

    Quote Originally Posted by Tripp View Post
    Wow - beautiful on the cover, what are those hubcaps? Are they the "Bullock" hubcaps?
    Trip
    Thanks DC ... hubcaps are my brainchild ... I wanted a hubcap that didn't require drilling into my Aluminum 14".

    I could have taken the easy route of using a W123 hubcap but always liked the look of the "Rudge" centerlocks available on the big sister.

    So I just made my own caps to emulate the look and most importantly hide the bolts.
    It took me close to 6 month of playing around to figure out to make them to snap on just right.

    Most people think they are OEM ... I even painted the inside DB158 ... and added an inspection dot ... just because ...
    Only someone in here would know they were never an option. I unveiled them at the 2014 Convention and stumped a few people for a bit.

    Benefit is that the Rudge were actually quite heavy. I still have my Alu rims with the sportier look of the Rudge.
    I am still debating whether I want to powdercoat the dish as well to make it look like this:
    (Maybe I'll do a second set so I can switch back and forth when the mood strikes me)
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    Marc G.
    __________________________________________________ _______
    '57 190SL Coupe, Blaugrün (DB268) / Tan (1068) #121 040 7502070
    "Green Hornet" restoration log

  4. #139
    Savour the Journey ! aldesso's Avatar
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    Re: 1957 "Green Hornet" restoration

    During the 2013 show, most people said once the restoration is complete, it will take about 2 years to work out all the bugs. Well, here I am 2 years later and everyone was right on.
    The car pretty much runs as it should.I am still tweaking a few things here and there but by choice, not to fix anything wrong.

    After the 60th Anniversary incident, I am still waiting for the bumper to install the front fog lights but the car has her smile.
    I actually have quite a few people telling me how much they like it as a racer

    I just upgraded all the gauges to LEDs (following Greg's excellent list).
    I first tried the warm white LEDs but it was way too bright for my taste. Replaced all with Green LEDs and am very happy with results.
    The instruments are very easy to read at night and the green glow does not mess with my night vision ; Very similar, from a brightness perspective, to the original incandescent bulbs they replace.
    Added bonus, it goes perfectly with the Green Hornet color combo.

    The high beam witness light is also much brighter than before. I could barely make it out before.

    Here is a picture of the illuminated dash (still have to play around with water temp gauge. for some reason, not as bright as the others, perhaps I didn't fully insert the bulb holder)
    PS: I know the Speedo is crooked, I just slid it in for the beauty shot.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Marc G.
    __________________________________________________ _______
    '57 190SL Coupe, Blaugrün (DB268) / Tan (1068) #121 040 7502070
    "Green Hornet" restoration log

  5. #140
    Registered User ColKlink's Avatar
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    Re: 1957 "Green Hornet" restoration

    Quote Originally Posted by aldesso View Post
    During the 2013 show, most people said once the restoration is complete, it will take about 2 years to work out all the bugs. Well, here I am 2 years later and everyone was right on.
    The car pretty much runs as it should.I am still tweaking a few things here and there but by choice, not to fix anything wrong.

    After the 60th Anniversary incident, I am still waiting for the bumper to install the front fog lights but the car has her smile.
    I actually have quite a few people telling me how much they like it as a racer

    I just upgraded all the gauges to LEDs (following Greg's excellent list).
    I first tried the warm white LEDs but it was way too bright for my taste. Replaced all with Green LEDs and am very happy with results.
    The instruments are very easy to read at night and the green glow does not mess with my night vision ; Very similar, from a brightness perspective, to the original incandescent bulbs they replace.
    Added bonus, it goes perfectly with the Green Hornet color combo.

    The high beam witness light is also much brighter than before. I could barely make it out before.

    Here is a picture of the illuminated dash (still have to play around with water temp gauge. for some reason, not as bright as the others, perhaps I didn't fully insert the bulb holder)
    PS: I know the Speedo is crooked, I just slid it in for the beauty shot.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    I just noticed last night driving, that my water gauge is also quite dim compared to the others (all new bulbs 6 years ago); perhaps it's just the way the gauge is built?
    Roland W.

    '59 190SL #14333: DOB June 12, 1959 (Silver)
    '61 190SL # 22385 DOB Sept 1, 1961 (Light Blue)
    Some photos, documents and work-in-progress pics. Updated Jul 10, 2009

  6. #141
    Savour the Journey ! aldesso's Avatar
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    Re: 1957 "Green Hornet" restoration

    Quote Originally Posted by ColKlink View Post
    I just noticed last night driving, that my water gauge is also quite dim compared to the others (all new bulbs 6 years ago); perhaps it's just the way the gauge is built?
    Interesting Roland. I need to get in there anyways to repair one of the bulb holders in the tacho that was missing a screw. I'll investigate and see if I can make any sense of it.
    Marc G.
    __________________________________________________ _______
    '57 190SL Coupe, Blaugrün (DB268) / Tan (1068) #121 040 7502070
    "Green Hornet" restoration log

  7. #142
    Bill Ainsworth
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    Re: 1957 "Green Hornet" restoration

    Quote Originally Posted by aldesso View Post
    Interesting Roland. I need to get in there anyways to repair one of the bulb holders in the tacho that was missing a screw. I'll investigate and see if I can make any sense of it.
    Marc,
    Speaking of LEDs, I just finished upgrading my tail/brake lights to the LEDs. What an improvement! Your Newsletter article a few months back was very helpful. Good saturated color, I feel much safer and much more visible on the road. I think I'll be upgrading the turn signal lights as well. I understand this will require a flasher unit change. Were the dash lights a "plug and play" type of effort - no mods needed?
    Bill

  8. #143
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    Re: 1957 "Green Hornet" restoration

    Marc
    Back to your rad cap . Water boils at 212 deg at standard atmospheric pressure 29.92 inches of mercury if you raise the pressure you can bring water up to 350 deg. with out it boiling . This how a central heating plant works they can heat a building miles away from the plant by bringing up the pressure to keep it from boiling then release the pressure when it gets to the intended building .
    So with your radiator cap it is important to have a good seal to maintain the pressure to keep it from boiling .Most rad caps have a rating for pressure 10 to 15 lbs. rings a bell & that would be in the locked position .Remember the boiling temp changes with altitude .
    Jim Rombough 1960 190 SL
    Greely Ont. Canada

  9. #144
    Savour the Journey ! aldesso's Avatar
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    Re: 1957 "Green Hornet" restoration

    Quote Originally Posted by Bill Ainsworth View Post
    Marc,
    Speaking of LEDs, I just finished upgrading my tail/brake lights to the LEDs. What an improvement! Your Newsletter article a few months back was very helpful. Good saturated color, I feel much safer and much more visible on the road. I think I'll be upgrading the turn signal lights as well. I understand this will require a flasher unit change. Were the dash lights a "plug and play" type of effort - no mods needed?
    Bill
    Thank you Bill,

    I do feel much safer at night, even more so after my 3rd brake light and I am still working on my mechanical brake switch for instant-on brakes.

    The turn signal will indeed require a flasher unit. You could always build it into an original canister if you mind the look.

    The dash lights are plug and play but are a pain in the neck due to the lack of space. If you can get your hand in there, I suggest removing the Tacho and Speedo. You do not want to mess with the water temp and oil pressure gauge ... Too much to go wrong. Just leave them in place and simply pull the bulb holder and bulb out of the instrument.

    The 3 small witness lights are the hardest to take off but not impossible.

    Overall, not a hard job. Just very tight quarters but completely worth the effort and your car's wiring will thank you for it.
    Marc G.
    __________________________________________________ _______
    '57 190SL Coupe, Blaugrün (DB268) / Tan (1068) #121 040 7502070
    "Green Hornet" restoration log

  10. #145
    Savour the Journey ! aldesso's Avatar
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    Re: 1957 "Green Hornet" restoration

    Quote Originally Posted by Jim Rombough View Post
    Marc
    Back to your rad cap . Water boils at 212 deg at standard atmospheric pressure 29.92 inches of mercury if you raise the pressure you can bring water up to 350 deg. with out it boiling . This how a central heating plant works they can heat a building miles away from the plant by bringing up the pressure to keep it from boiling then release the pressure when it gets to the intended building .
    So with your radiator cap it is important to have a good seal to maintain the pressure to keep it from boiling .Most rad caps have a rating for pressure 10 to 15 lbs. rings a bell & that would be in the locked position .Remember the boiling temp changes with altitude .
    Thank you Jim,
    The overheating is all taken care of. It was a combination of a bad thermostat and the lack of stop for the rad cap. The Thermostat is replaced and whenever I have to bring the car in, I make sure they didn't mess with the rad cap.
    Marc G.
    __________________________________________________ _______
    '57 190SL Coupe, Blaugrün (DB268) / Tan (1068) #121 040 7502070
    "Green Hornet" restoration log

  11. #146
    23K Original Miles slover's Avatar
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    Re: 1957 "Green Hornet" restoration

    I've had three 190 SLs and never had a problem with the dash lights. I did put a rheostat in two of them, my first and current, substituting it for the resistor in the circuit of the factory hi/lo switch. For me, they were too bright on high and too dim on low. Now, they're just right.
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    John Lewenauer - Newsletter Editor - Regional Director
    1961 190 SL
    Click here to EMAIL me

  12. #147
    Savour the Journey ! aldesso's Avatar
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    Re: 1957 "Green Hornet" restoration

    Quote Originally Posted by slover View Post
    I've had three 190 SLs and never had a problem with the dash lights. I did put a rheostat in two of them, my first and current, substituting it for the resistor in the circuit of the factory hi/lo switch. For me, they were too bright on high and too dim on low. Now, they're just right.
    John, your original post on the matter was the route I was originally going to take. I decided to try all LEDs and, should it be too bright, go with your dimmer idea. Regardless, the witness lights really give a lot more light. Obviously, if you were to use a combination of LEDs for the witness lights and incandescent bulbs for the dimmable instruments, you would have to first split the wiring as you cannot dim those specific LEDs.
    Marc G.
    __________________________________________________ _______
    '57 190SL Coupe, Blaugrün (DB268) / Tan (1068) #121 040 7502070
    "Green Hornet" restoration log

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