Fuel Filter Rebuild

[blackdog]

I am attempting to rebuild my late model fuel filter right now. Make sure you get a copy of Ed Bertrand's worksheet on this. So far the only hard part is getting the c-clip back on. I think I need a second hand. Here is one question.

The one question not answered in Ed's report is the alignment of the round metal disc with the two holes in it (I do not know the proper name) during re-assembly. This round metal disc rotates and changes the gas flow from normal to reserve, when the interior push lever cable is used. The spring sits above this disc, and this disc sits on top of the cork gasket.

As there are no alignment marks, I must assume one simply places this disc so the top hole aligns with the top hole in the cork gasket...but which hole-- as there are two? Also, how can one be assured they aligned the disc hole perfectly to prevent a diminished gas flow?

I hope when I reassemble , after I attach the cable going to the interior, that it will be aligned automatically??

Any thoughts?

paul adler

I have latest model fuel filter. By the way-I have had my SL for 20 years and the original cork gasket seemed ok without ever being replaced in at least 20-25 years. Amazing, when they say they only last a year or two?

2000@vineyard.net

[RonRapp]

After assembling the rotating valve, try blowing into the fuel valve output hole. You should be able to feel air coming out the imput or the reserve. Changing the lever should switch from one to the other.

[bertfam]

Paul,

When you took the filter apart, you should have (hopefully) left the lever and the rotating valve connected to each other (See the first picture below). This way you can just put it back on in the same position you took it off in.

The second picture shows the gasket in position. Note that there are three holes in the gasket with the center one going to the pump and the other two going to the two supply lines from the tank.

The last picture shows the cut-out in the housing. Now you just replace the lever and rotating valve assembly back into place and reinstall the clip.

Like Ron said, you can just blow into the filter to make sure the gasket's aligned properly. Check one, then move the lever to the other position and check that. You should get a large supply of air from each position.

Ed

[blackdog]

I hear ya.

I took my lever off and left it attached to the cable, thinking I was being smart! Maybe when I reassemble it the orientation will stay the same. Also, I could follow Ron's suggestion, and blow air through it first, with the lever on, and then when I reassemble, the lever should not move if the cable is set to the normal fuel position.

By the way, I did not see this hint on Ed Bertand's article, but I use a 5/8" socket to press down on the disc and spring, as I could not get enough pressure with my thumb to install the c-clip. Then I had my wife slip the c-clip on as I maintained presure with the socket. Maybe if your good, you could do it yourself, but I couldn't.

paul adler

[RonRapp]

It's more fun when you employ help from the family!!!

[Ainsworth]

try putting the assembly, with the socket (and the "C" clip) in a bench vise, makes the compression much easier and more controllable.
Bill

[blackdog]

I was getting exciting, like maybe I would do something right for a change and not make a costly mistake.

No luck here.

I decided to replace the 25 plus year old aftermarket fuel pump with an original Bosch. I really wanted that priming lever. Also, my original pump was losing it's prime on a regular basis, and it was not the cork in the fuel filter.

When removing the outgoing fuel line from the fuel pump I was unaware that I was suppose to only turn, with my 17mm wrench, the bottom nut, and secure the TOP fuel line nut. As a result, a twisted the interior fuel line off.

Now I have to order a fuel line assembly from the pump to the carbs.

I almost made it through without a mistake. Not this time.

Warning-when there are two nuts, be careful!

paul adler

[Simonrex]

Great pictures!

[Simonrex]

Well, not so lucky with my C clip, it was frozen in time, should have let soak with PB blast first, soaking now to pull the rotating luck that the handle attaches to.

[Simonrex]

Does anyone know who has these C clips in stock?

[gpeirce]

I don't know about the wire clips, but you can get an internal snap ring from McMaster-Carr
Their part number is 98455A131 for 34ID, 36.5OD, 1.5 thick and they are 10 for $3.67
The snap rings are much easier to remove with snap ring pliers for future work.

[Simonrex]

Greg, thanks for that!

I’m on their site now and I see the snap ring. I’m going to order a pack, as you can see, the one I removed is more of a wire clip. But sounds like this snap ring will work.

Any idea where the other snap ring goes that’s in the picture above? The C shaped ring.

I don't know about the wire clips, but you can get an internal snap ring from McMaster-Carr
Their part number is 98455A131 for 34ID, 36.5OD, 1.5 thick and they are 10 for $3.67
The snap rings are much easier to remove with snap ring pliers for future work.

[Simonrex]

I just learned there’s 2 different size housing. Mine is 32mm (1957 SL) looks like I’ll have sizes now if anyone needs one. (Free of charge)

Greg, thanks for that!

I’m on their site now and I see the snap ring. I’m going to order a pack, as you can see, the one I removed is more of a wire clip. But sounds like this snap ring will work.

Any idea where the other snap ring goes that’s in the picture above? The C shaped ring.